back

about

Knots and hitches

Keep them in memory for climbing!

There's a subtle difference in meaning, when it comes to knots and hitches:

  • Knot: A self-contained rope configuration that holds its shape without another object.
  • Hitch: A rope configuration that relies on another object to hold or function. (think of hitch hiking! Relaying on other people's vehicle 🚗)

Figure of 8 (Knot)

What it does

Creates a strong, non-slipping stopper or secure loop. Self-contained, stable, and easy to untie after loading. Often there's minor mistakes making this knot, see how to tie correct figure of 8.

Limitations

  • Uses more rope than simpler knots.
  • Can jam under heavy load.
  • Bulky, not ideal where compactness matters.

Where it’s used

  • Standard tie-in knot for climbers.
  • Secure loop: Figure-8 double loop for anchoring or hauling.
  • Tying into harnesses or around fixed objects.

Clove Hitch (Hitch)

What it does

A quick, adjustable hitch for securing a rope to a pole, carabiner, or post. Excellent for temporary attachments.

Limitations

  • Can slip if not under constant tension.
  • Weakens rope more than some other hitches.
  • Not reliable as a life-safety knot.

Where it’s used

  • Anchoring to 2–3 bolts/trees in top-rope setups, quickly equalizing lengths
  • Fast attachment to carabiners.

Prusik vs Klemheist (Friction Hitches)

What they do

Both are friction hitches that grip a rope when loaded and slide when unloaded.

  • Prusik: Symmetrical, grips in both directions.
  • Klemheist: Directional, grips strongly in one direction, easier to release in the other.

Limitations

  • Prusik: Can slip on wet/icy ropes; difficult to release under heavy load.
  • Klemheist: Works only in one direction; less versatile.
  • Both require a smaller-diameter cord vs. the main rope for reliable grip.

Where they’re used

  • Prusik: Rope ascent, belay backups, self-rescue.
  • Klemheist: Abseiling

Resources & Other links